More gratifying, the level of artificial climbing the world uses the same standard - A1 to A5 (Australia uses the M0-M8 system. M stands for mechanical, that is, equipment and equipment). The route marked by C1-C5 indicates that the clean aid climbing must be maintained, and auxiliary equipment can only use rock plugs, so that no scars are left on the rocks. Sometimes, the route that must maintain the original appearance is also based on the A0-A5 system. If a mountaineering route is based on the C0-C5 system, it is hoped that later climbers will respect the established tradition and try to keep the original appearance of the route. In fact, to put aside climbing methods and concepts, the C system and the A system are exactly the same in terms of difficulty.
Unfortunately, there are many explanations for this standard. Generally speaking, the level of a certain place always depends on the record at the time of the first completion...
In general, it is also a more traditional way of saying that the development of the artificial climbing scale complies with:
A1: The placement of all stress points is simple and reliable.
A2: The placement of all stress points is fairly reliable, but the operation is a bit difficult and awkward.
A3: The placement of many stress points is not reliable, but there are often reliable protection points.
A4: Individually continuous can not withstand stress points greater than the weight load.
A5: For more than 20 meters in a row, there are a lot of unreliable stress points.
In Europe, most artificial routes were completed a long time ago, and some of the difficulty levels of these routes have been downgraded. In short, the placement of A3 protection points is not reliable, but it can withstand short-range fall. A4 will have some protection points that can only withstand the weight, but it is not uncommon for them to appear continuously. A5 has not heard of it. And A0 is used to define those routes that have a permanent, solid protection point.
In the United States, modern equipment and passion drive people to continuously climb higher and higher walls. In the incredible short period of ten years, artificial climbing has been pushed to the extreme. It also changed the interpretation of the grading standards. This is the interpretation of modern artificial climbing scale standards in the book "Big Wall" by John Long and John Middendorf:
A0: Hang on the equipment, step on the rock cone, and climb on something like a rock plug. There is no need to use a ladder, but it cannot be called "free climbing." Maybe it can be called "French free climbing."
A1: Simple climb. The placement of force points is simple and firm, and each one can withstand falling.
A2: Moderate climb. Strong but often difficult to place good stress points. There will be one or two unreliable stress points above a firm stress point. Falling posture is not dangerous.
A2+: Moderate climb. There will be more unreliable stress points on a firm stress point. There is a possibility of serious fall, but generally nothing major.
A3: Difficult climb. A number of consecutive unreliable stress points must each be tested before loading the weight. Although there are several reliable points in each pitch, they are few and far apart. In the fall, there will be more than eight stress points that may fall off, which is a little dangerous. It takes a few hours to complete a pitch.
A3+: A3, but it can be dangerous if it falls.
A4: Difficult climb. Most stress points do not stand up to weight and at the same time have serious consequences if they fall. It is not uncommon to continue climbing 10-15 meters from a reliable stress point.
A4+: A very difficult climb. The stress points are always very marginal and each pitch is like this and it takes many hours to complete.
A5: Extremely difficult climb. There is no single point in the pitch that is trustworthy. There is no one bolt in all pitches.
A6: Even the anchor between the pitches cannot stand the fall. If a person falls, the team will parachute. All those who have experienced A6 are not sound, and so far there is no neuropathy that can make a reliable report.
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