Devil Mountain God - Dhaulagiri Peak [PHOTOS]
The seventh highest point in the world is Lagiri, which is 8167 meters above sea level. This mountain is the real jewel of the Himalayas. Because it is one of the most difficult to reach mountain peaks, even now, Dhaulagiri’s “Mystic Valley†hike through the circuit is a difficult road at a high altitude. When Zhuo Youyou was touted as the easiest peak of the 8000 meters, and the peak was rarely involved in the business team, on the contrary, the temptation and purity of the mountaineers were retained - only experienced veterans dared to climb. Dhaulagiri, known as the "White Mountain", is literally translated as "Dhahawala Giri" in Sanskrit, and it has a more classic technical style line in the Himalayas. The huge mountains stretch for 50 kilometers and there are 4 independent peaks above 7500M.
Several climbs from 1950 to 1959 were completed by French, Swiss, Austrian and Argentineans, but all these attempts in the North Wall ended in failure. In 1960, Austria's Kot. Demborg, Sherbani M. Dodge and other 5 people climbed to the top. The south side of the Dolomites is like a pyramid, an extended false peak in front of the pyramid, known as the “Little North Face of the Eiger†- most climbers call it an unreachable route. Avalanches, thunder and lightning are characteristic of this mountain, and the climbing height is 3,000 meters.
Laomei said: "For any 8,000 meters, whether or not the summit is not the most important, it is important that there should be new exploration. The southern peak of the Daofeng is the world's highest un-climbed snow-rock hybrid line. The top is like a castle, towering in the "life exclusion zone". The air is fresh but lacks oxygen. In Nepal's dark, shimmering mountains, Dhaulagiri rises suddenly."
In 1985, Messner came to the south side of the road. This time, he came with his old partner and Hans Kammerland. The pair of Italian Tai Ruolin climbed up to Annapurna.
Before Messner had two failed climbs on the South Wall. The dangers and difficulty of the South Wall were unusual. The avalanche was almost every day. The huge concave south wall was not yet available in the 1980s. Lamei recalls: “The air is not static, and the mountains are not standing still. The bad weather often comes from a raid. The speed of the wind can reach 200 km/h. The qiyun can sometimes reach several kilometers. At dusk, the peak of the snowfall is reflected in the sunset. Such as a volcanic eruption, a fiery red ... Dhaulagiri is very much like a volcano, and in the four weeks it was held up in 1977, it gave me violent. When we struggled in the south, numerous avalanches forced us to learn Treat fear as part of everyday life."
This time, Messner and Kamerland departed from the valley of Glyfada Gandhi and crossed the French Pass to the base camp of North Wall. On May 13th, they entered the icefall area of ​​the Northeastern ridge. They have been climbing on the right side of the ridge to find the ice-rock boundary. In order to ensure safety, they erected local fixed ropes for declining use. Because there are too many vertical cliffs on the line. On May 14, they set out from the 6,000-meter camp and in the afternoon moved up to the 7300-meter camp on the Southeast Line.
The summit on May 15th was even a legend for Messner: the thunderbolt lightning was frequent and weird, the hailstones and crampons were sizzling, and the hair was erected, from sleeves to gloves, from From rock to hail, from the ridge to the sky, electricity is everywhere, and all of them have electric sparks everywhere. Fortunately, there have been no violent attacks, and there is a possibility of death at any time in this weird cloud. Two climbers peaked in a terror, and they were surprised to find themselves alive. Messner said: “We ourselves have a feeling of invulnerability. In addition to thunder and lightning, I don’t know of anything else in the world. In Dhaulagiri, I heard thunder and thunder, and I saw lightning in the south. However, Next to us, there is no lightning. All scenes are like the horror drama of the evil god of India."
On the same day, they returned 7300M. May 16, return to base camp.
This is a classic alpine style climbing. Although some people questioned their fixed ropes damage the pure style, but Laome still believes that "it can't use death as the price of the summit." Starting from base camp for 4 days, this is already a miracle that latecomers cannot repeat.
Lai Mei's temper is arrogant, but his performance is also obvious.
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